Bias cutting
The technique of cutting fabric at a 45-degree angle to the grainline to maximize natural stretch and drape. Cutting fabric at a 45-degree angle to the grainline, providing stretch and drape. (merged) Aliases: bias cut.
Where it is used
Prepare Bias Strips - Step 2
p. 4- Next, fold the raw edges in toward the pressed center line, then fold the bias strip in half again so the finished width is 1 cm. Pin in place. Mark the reference points on the right side of the bias strips using tailor’s chalk or soap.
Fabric Preparation and Cutting
p. 1- Pre-shrink the fabric (dampen it, let it dry until slightly moist, press with an iron, and allow it to finish drying completely). Trace the pattern pieces onto the fabric, making sure to follow the grainline. Cut out the pieces according to the pattern. Note: At this stage, you can leave extra allowance for fit adjustments along the side edges and waistband.
Apply bias-cut fusible stay tape to the neckline
p. 2- Apply bias-cut fusible stay tape to the neckline seam allowances on the wrong side of the front and back pieces. Position the tape so its main thread runs 1 cm from the raw edge. The needle should stitch right along this thread. Don't stretch the edges. After fusing, compare the seam lengths to those on the paper pattern—they should match exactly.
Finishing the upper edge of the garment with a facing
p. 15- Secure the side seam allowances of the facing to the side seam allowances of the garment with hand stitches. At this stage of sewing, the garment should be left to "hang" on a dress form, as the pieces are cut on the bias.
Related terms
requiresElastane-free fabric
applied toTencel shirting fabric
applied toDress Roberta
compatible withNotching
← alternative toKnit fabric