Knit fabric
A stretchy fabric constructed from interlocking loops, requiring specific handling and needles to prevent damage and maintain stretch.
Where it is used
Securing Overlock Tails
p. 6- Tuck the overlock thread tails between the knit layers using a needle or a small crochet hook.
Sewing Plan
p. 4- 1.Pin the side seams of the top, aligning the edges and notches, with right sides facing each other.
- 2.Sew and serge the top’s side seams at the same time using a 4-thread overlock machine, easing the front edge in the bust area. (Alternatively, sew with a regular machine, then finish the edges with a standard 3-thread overlocker.) Use a 0.7 cm seam allowance.
- 3.Pin the side edges of the top lining together, matching notches and raw edges with right sides facing.
- 4.Stitch and serge the side seams of the lining at the same time on a 4-thread overlock machine (or first use a regular sewing machine, then finish the edges with a standard 3-thread serger). Seam allowance: 0.7 cm.
- 5.Press the seam allowances of the top’s side seams toward the back.
- 6.Press the seam allowances of the lining to the front panel.
- 7.Pin the top and lining together along the upper edge and armhole curves, matching the edges and placing the wrong sides face to face. Sew the top and the lining together along the upper edge and armhole edges. Use a 0.3 cm seam allowance.
- 8.Bind the top edge using a flatlock machine with a binding attachment, starting from the shoulder seam on the back and finishing at the shoulder seam on the front.
- 9.Finish the armhole edges using a flat seam machine and a special edge binder. Press the finished upper edge and armhole.
- 10.Sew the shoulder seam, aligning the edges and the binding seams, with the right sides facing each other. Allow for a 0.7 cm seam allowance.
- 11.Finish the shoulder seam allowance with an overlock stitch. Use a crochet hook to tuck the thread tails neatly into the overlock stitching.
- 12.Sew a reinforcing stitch along the shoulder seam of the top, 0.5 cm from the edge, pressing the seam allowance toward the back.
- 13.Press the seam allowances along the bottom edges of the back and front up by 2.5 cm.
- 14.Sew a line along the bottom edge of the top using a flatlock machine. Pull the thread ends to the inside and tuck them into the seam using a knit hook.
- 15.Sew the ends of the elastic together to form a loop, allowing for a 1.0 cm seam allowance.
- 16.Finish the seam allowance where the ends of the elastic are joined. Use a hook to tuck in the overlock threads along the stitching line.
- 17.Sew down the seam allowance where the elastic ends are joined, stitching 0.5 cm from the edge.
- 18.Pin the elastic to the bottom edge of the top’s lining, placing the elastic on the right side and overlapping the seam allowance by 1.0 cm. Baste the elastic onto the lower seam allowance of the top’s lining.
- 19.Using a flatlock machine, stitch along the elastic, attaching it to the lower seam allowance of the lining. Tuck the threads inside the stitching line with a hook.
- 20.Press the seam where the elastic was stitched to the bottom edge of the top’s lining.
- 21.Final garment finishing.
Fitting and Overlocking Hems
p. 13- Perform a fitting (try-on) and determine the final length of the jumper and the sleeves. Serge/Overlock the bottom raw edge of the jumper and sleeves, placing the stitching on the right side of the piece. Press lightly. Refresh the pressing of the hem allowances (4 cm).
Step 14: Topstitching neckline
p. 7- Topstitch the neckline facing seam from the lining side, keeping the stitching line 0.1 cm from the edge. Set the machine to a stretch stitch. Make sure the seam remains elastic.
17.4. Overlocking inner waistband
p. 26- Finish the inner edge of the inner waistband with an overlock stitch.
Finishing the Hem of the Garment and Sleeves
p. 24- Use the pattern to measure the hem allowance, then mark the hem line on the right side of the sleeve and along the bottom edge of the garment.
Preparing the collar
p. 17- Fold the collar in half, pin it in place, and stitch along the short edges on a straight-stitch machine, keeping a 7mm allowance from the edge. Afterwards, press the seams open in opposite directions. Fold the collar in half with the wrong sides facing in. Align the notches and seam, then pin them together. Match up the edges and sew a strengthening stitch on a straight-stitch machine, keeping 2–3 mm from the edge, removing the pins and gently stretching the collar as you sew. Carefully press the collar, taking care not to stretch it out.
Hemming
p. 3- Pin the hem of the sleeve and the garment, baste in place. Hand-stitch the hem. Tip: When using thin and stretchy knit fabrics, the garment hem and sleeve hem should be finished on a flatlock machine.
Hand stitch sleeve hems
p. 8- Finish the sleeve hems by hand using light, invisible stitches for added stretch.
Cuff Construction - Step 18
p. 10- Fold the seam allowance over and sew a line on the sewing machine, 3.5 cm from the fold. Stretch the elastic to fit the hem of the pants as you stitch.
Collar
p. 16- Fold the collar in half with the wrong sides facing in. Align the notches and seam, then pin them together. Match up the edges and sew a strengthening stitch on a straight-stitch machine, keeping 2–3 mm from the edge, removing the pins and gently stretching the collar as you sew. Carefully press the collar, taking care not to stretch it out.
Related terms
← applied toPre-shrinking
requiresKnit machine needles
← requiresScevola dress
← applied toPre-washing fabric
← applied toDecatizing
← applied toDecating
requiresKnit needle
requiresKnit sewing needles
compatible withOverlock seam
requiresDecatizing