Fabric
The primary textile material used to construct the garment.
Where it is used
1.3.
p. 4- Gather the stitching along the neckline and hem of the front piece until they match the measurements indicated on the front piece pattern.
Preparing Hems
p. 6- Re-press the hem folds at the bottom of the top and the sleeves. Secure the seam allowances with a line of stitching using a twin needle or a coverstitch machine. You can also secure the seam allowances by stitching a zigzag with a frequency of 2-3 and a width of 3.5. Steps for finishing hems with a twin needle or a coverstitch machine: baste the seam allowances in place, sewing with contrasting thread and stitching 1 mm in from the edge of the allowance.
Pattern Preparation & Cutting
p. 4- Cut out the required pieces from both the main fabric and the lining according to the pattern. Mark all notches and reference points by making 3mm snips through all fabric layers, keeping everything symmetrical. Add notches at the center front and back as well. Transfer all darts and markings.
Mark Zipper Reference Points
p. 8- Mark the lower zipper point on the front piece—this is the reference for your hem allowance. On the collar, mark where the zipper starts—this will be your collar fold reference point.
Stitching Twill Tape (First Edge)
p. 8- Stitch the twill tape in place, sewing at a distance of 0.1 – 0.2 cm from the edge of the twill tape. The stitching must land on the collar attachment stitching line.
Pressing the bottom hem
p. 7- Press the hem allowance up 4.0 cm toward the inside of the garment.
Step 30: Final pressing
p. 11- Final pressing of the finished garment.
26. Final pressing
p. 32- Final garment pressing/finishing.
Finishing the Hem of the Garment and Sleeves
p. 24- Serge the bottom edge of the garment and sleeves.
Preparing the Upper Front Section
p. 7- Gather the bottom edge of the front upper piece. Between the two marks that show where to start and end the gathering, sew two rows of long, loose stitches, about 7 mm and 13 mm from the edge. Leave the thread ends loose. Pull gently on the lower threads to gather the fabric to match the pattern size. Spread the gathers evenly.
Preparing the waistband
p. 15- Fold the waistband in half and stitch the short edges using a straight stitch, staying 7mm away from the fabric edge. When finished, press the seams open. First, fold the waistband in half lengthwise with the wrong sides together. Pin it in place, matching the notches and seam line. Then, sew a straight securing stitch 2–3 mm from the raw edges, making sure the edges are even as you go. As you sew, gently stretch the waistband if needed and remove the pins. When finished, carefully press the waistband, being mindful not to stretch or distort it.
Sleeve and Hem Preparation
p. 2- Overlock the lower edges of the sleeves and the hem of the garment from the right side. Baste, fold up the sleeve hem along the basting line, and press.
Related terms
← applied toShoulder seam
compatible withIron
compatible withScissors
compatible withSewing machine
← applied toPre-shrinking
← applied toDecatization
← applied toDecatizing
← applied toPre-shrinking
← applied toGathering Stitch
← applied toCenter Back Seam