Fly front zipper installation
A classic method of constructing a zippered crotch opening with a protective fly shield and facing.
Where it is used
Fly topstitching
p. 20- Press the topstitched fly.
1.3. Fly interfacing
p. 5- Fuse the fly interfacing to the fly allowance on the right front pant piece from the wrong side.
1.4. Fly extension interfacing
p. 6- Fuse a 1.0 cm-wide strip of interfacing to the fly extension allowance on the wrong side of the left front pant piece.
15.1. Overlocking fly closure
p. 13- Serge the fly closure edge on the right front pant piece, stitching along the center seam 3.0–4.0 cm below where the fly begins.
15.5. Overlocking crotch and fly
p. 15- Overlock the crotch seam allowance and the fly allowance on the left front piece, folding back the finished zipper-fly allowance of the right front piece.
15.10. Turning fly facing
p. 16- Turn the fly facing right side out and press, aligning the vertical edges.
15.9. Sewing fly facing
p. 16- Stitch the facing along the lower edge. Seam allowance: 1.0 cm.
15.8. Pinning fly facing
p. 16- Pin the facing along the lower edge, matching the edges with right sides together.
15.14. Measuring zipper
p. 17- Place the zipper tape against the fly and measure the required length: the top zipper stop should sit 1.2 cm below the top edge of the pants.
15.12. Pressing fly facing
p. 17- Press the fly facing.
15.14. Positioning bottom stop
p. 18- Place the bottom stop 0.2 cm above the start of the center-seam stitching line (the reference mark for the start of the fly).
15.18. Sewing fly facing
p. 19- Stitch the fly facing to the left zipper opening using a single-toe presser foot. Seam allowance 1.0 cm.
Related terms
requiresZipper
requiresSingle-toe presser foot
depends onPreshrinking zipper
requiresZipper foot
requiresPliers