Material

Bias-cut fabric

Fabric cut at a 45-degree angle to the grainline, providing excellent drape and elasticity, but highly prone to stretching and distortion.

Where it is used

p. 4

Next, fold the raw edges in toward the pressed center line, then fold the bias strip in half again so the finished width is 1 cm. Pin in place. Mark the reference points on the right side of the bias strips using tailor’s chalk or soap.

p. 13

p. 1

Pre-shrink the fabric (dampen it, let it dry until slightly moist, press with an iron, and allow it to finish drying completely). Trace the pattern pieces onto the fabric, making sure to follow the grainline. Cut out the pieces according to the pattern. Note: At this stage, you can leave extra allowance for fit adjustments along the side edges and waistband.

p. 2

Apply bias-cut fusible stay tape to the neckline seam allowances on the wrong side of the front and back pieces. Position the tape so its main thread runs 1 cm from the raw edge. The needle should stitch right along this thread. Don't stretch the edges. After fusing, compare the seam lengths to those on the paper pattern—they should match exactly.

p. 12

Reinforce the upper edge of the front and back facings with bias tape using heat treatment. Be careful. If additional seam allowances are left, make sure to apply the bias tape in such a way that the edge falls within the facing seam. When attaching the fusible bias tape, be careful not to distort the edge. To avoid this, the soleplate of the iron should be applied with short, intermittent movements over the area, rather than dragging it along the edge. Tip: After fusing the tape, place the pattern piece on the facing and check the length of the upper edge. Fold the back facing piece and the front facing piece with the right sides together. Align the side edges. Sew the side seams. Trim the seam allowances to 0.7–1 cm. Press and press open the seam allowances.

compatible withFrench seam