Sewing concept

Side seam pocket

An in-seam pocket constructed on the front pant pieces using pocket bags (burlap).

Where it is used

Pocket construction in the side seam with a welt

p. 5
  1. Chalk-mark the pocket frame on the right side of the front pant pieces, following the front-piece pattern.
Pocket construction in the side seam with a welt
Open the step in the "Barrel Leg Pants Pattern PDF | Balloon Trousers Sewing | High Waisted Pleated Pants | Tapered Womens Bottoms | XS-M" pattern →

Pocket construction in the side seam with a welt

p. 5
  1. Chalk-mark the stitching line and the match points (frame ends) on the pocket welt. Seam allowance: 1.0 cm.
Pocket construction in the side seam with a welt
Open the step in the "Barrel Leg Pants Pattern PDF | Balloon Trousers Sewing | High Waisted Pleated Pants | Tapered Womens Bottoms | XS-M" pattern →

Pocket construction in the side seam with a welt

p. 7
  1. Press all pocket seam allowances open so the pocket bag is directed toward the inside of the pocket.
Pocket construction in the side seam with a welt
Open the step in the "Barrel Leg Pants Pattern PDF | Balloon Trousers Sewing | High Waisted Pleated Pants | Tapered Womens Bottoms | XS-M" pattern →

Pocket construction in the side seam with a welt

p. 9
  1. Stitch the edges of the upper and lower pocket bags all the way around. Seam allowance: 1.0 cm.
Pocket construction in the side seam with a welt
Open the step in the "Barrel Leg Pants Pattern PDF | Balloon Trousers Sewing | High Waisted Pleated Pants | Tapered Womens Bottoms | XS-M" pattern →

Pocket construction in the side seam with a welt

p. 10
  1. Pin the pocket bags to the front pant piece, aligning the side and top edges.
Pocket construction in the side seam with a welt
Open the step in the "Barrel Leg Pants Pattern PDF | Balloon Trousers Sewing | High Waisted Pleated Pants | Tapered Womens Bottoms | XS-M" pattern →

Pocket construction in the side seam with a welt

p. 10
  1. Finish the curved pocket edges with an overcast stitch.
Pocket construction in the side seam with a welt
Open the step in the "Barrel Leg Pants Pattern PDF | Balloon Trousers Sewing | High Waisted Pleated Pants | Tapered Womens Bottoms | XS-M" pattern →

Serging Pockets and Pressing Side Seams

p. 10
  1. Serge around the pocket without silicone tape, then place the silicone tape underneath once back at the side edge and serge it together. Press the finished edges toward the front panels (in the direction the pocket faces) and give the pocket a nice press.
Serging Pockets and Pressing Side Seams
Open the step in the "Flared Cardigan Pattern / Women’s kimono PDF Sewing Pattern / loose fit cardigan / Elastic sleeve / cardigan DIY / L-XXL/A4,USLetter,Plotter" pattern →

2. Pocket Construction in the Side Seams - 2.2

p. 3
  1. Finish the pocket opening with pocket lining, creating small steps at each end. Allow for a 1.0 cm seam.
2. Pocket Construction in the Side Seams - 2.2
Open the step in the "Flowy Maxi Skirt Pattern PDF | Long Balloon Skirt | Gathered A-Line Skirt | Womens Summer Skirt Sewing | L-XXL" pattern →

1.2. Pocket interfacing

p. 5
  1. Fuse a 1.0 cm-wide strip of interfacing to the pocket opening edge on the front pant pieces, on the wrong side.
1.2. Pocket interfacing
Open the step in the "High Waisted Flare Jeans Pattern PDF | Front Seam Bootcut Pants | 70s Retro Trousers | Womens Denim Sewing | L-XXL" pattern →

2.11. Pinning pocket bags

p. 8
  1. Pin the upper and lower pocket bags together along the curved edge, with right sides facing.
2.11. Pinning pocket bags
Open the step in the "High Waisted Flare Jeans Pattern PDF | Front Seam Bootcut Pants | 70s Retro Trousers | Womens Denim Sewing | L-XXL" pattern →

2.12. Stitching pocket bags

p. 9
  1. Stitch and simultaneously serge the upper and lower pocket bags together on a 4-thread overlock along the curved edge, matching the edges and notches. Seam allowance: 0.7 cm.
2.12. Stitching pocket bags
Open the step in the "High Waisted Flare Jeans Pattern PDF | Front Seam Bootcut Pants | 70s Retro Trousers | Womens Denim Sewing | L-XXL" pattern →

2.14. Securing pocket bags

p. 10
  1. Secure the pocket-bag seam allowances along the side and top edges of the pants, matching the edges and notches. Seam allowance: 0.3 cm.
2.14. Securing pocket bags
Open the step in the "High Waisted Flare Jeans Pattern PDF | Front Seam Bootcut Pants | 70s Retro Trousers | Womens Denim Sewing | L-XXL" pattern →

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