Reinforcing edges
Applying adhesive tape to high-stress or bias-cut areas like pocket openings and zipper seams.
Where it is used
Interfacing and Edge Reinforcement
p. 1- Completely interface the front and back waistband pieces. Apply bias fusible seam tape to the wrong side of the neckline edges for the front and back bodice pieces. Reinforce the left side seams where the zipper goes on the left front bodice, front skirt, and back skirt with straight-grain fusible tape.
Secure Twill Tape Edge
p. 11- Hand-stitch the free edge of the twill tape along the zipper with invisible stitches, or machine-stitch close to the edge of the tape. Press to finish.
Apply Stay Tape to Lower Pieces
p. 2- From the right side, apply bias fusible stay tape to reinforce the neckline edges and armhole edges on the lower front and back pieces. While fusing, be careful not to stretch the edge. After fusing, compare the edge length to the paper pattern—the lengths should match.
Reinforcing Pocket Seams with Silicone Tape
p. 5- Mark 2 cm above and below the pocket attachment seam. Cut two pieces of silicone tape matching this distance. Place the silicone tape along the side edge, lining it up with the pocket stitching line, and sew from notch to notch. Trim any excess and press the finished seam allowance toward the pocket.
Reinforcing Side Seams with Silicone Tape
p. 9- Cut silicone tape pieces for the lower side seam (bottom edge to pocket) and upper side seam (pocket to sleeve edge). Place the silicone tape along the sleeve seam allowance, lining it up with the stitching line, and serge both together. Trim extra tape when reaching the pocket.
Preparing the zipper top edges
p. 12- Turn the top edges of the zipper tape 90 degrees and add the fasteners.
Slit Reinforcement
p. 26- Cut reinforcing strips for the slit, 4.0 cm long, from pre-made ribbon. Pin the reinforcement onto the seam allowance perpendicularly to the relief seam. Secure the seam allowance by placing a fastener across the reinforcement tape. Use the reinforcement to wrap the seam allowance of the cut, tucking the ends under, and place fastenings along the edge, 0.1 cm from the fold.
Mark reference point on zipper tape
p. 7- Mark a reference point on the zipper tape where the stitching ends (see photo). Zip up the zipper and transfer the mark to the other side of the tape.
Duplication
p. 8- Apply adhesive to the allowance edges located at the side seams of the front and back, from the inside.
Reinforce Shoulder Seam
p. 4- To help prevent stretching at the shoulder seam: Attach a strip of fusible interfacing with a knit base, 0.5 cm wide and as long as the shoulder edge, to the shoulder edge of the back piece (or insert a silicone tape under the seam for reinforcement).
Baste Twill Tape
p. 9- Baste the other side of the tape 0.1 cm from the edge.
Left Side Seam - Reinforcement Preparation
p. 10- Finish the upper edge of the reinforcement.
