Pocket assembly
Constructing lined patch pockets and attaching them to the front panels.
Where it is used
Pocket Assembly - Step 2
p. 6- Fold the pocket along the crease with the right sides facing each other, then align the top edges and the lining. Sew around, leaving a 3–5 cm opening at the bottom edge for turning.
Pocket Assembly - Step 1
p. 6- Place the pocket and the pocket lining right sides together, aligning the top edge. Stitch along the edge. Press the seam allowance toward the lining.
Attaching Pockets
p. 7- Place the pocket on the front piece, following the markings. Baste it with diagonal stitches or secure with pins. Stitch the pocket close to the edge and add horizontal bar tacks at the pocket opening.
Pocket Assembly - Step 3
p. 7- Trim the corners of the seam allowances. Where the edges are curved, trim the allowance down to 0.5 cm. Turn the pocket right side out through the opening and press it. Hand stitch the open area closed. Prepare the second pocket in the same way.
Preparing Pocket Flap
p. 8- Prepare the flap. Place the outer and lining pieces right sides together and baste around the edges with diagonal stitches.
Attaching Flap to Front Panel
p. 10- Place the flap face down onto the front panel, matching it along the flap attachment line (the top edge of the frame). Secure it in place and sew it on, carefully following the side edges of the frame.
Cutting Pocket Window
p. 11- On the wrong side of the fabric, mark the cutting lines for the window. The line should run down the center of the frame, stopping 1.5 cm before reaching the sides, then angle diagonally out toward the corners. Carefully cut along the marked lines, stopping 1mm short of the corners. Make sure the flap allowances and the small tabs stay clear of the scissors.
Sewing Pocket Bag
p. 13- Sew the pocket bag to the unfinished edge of the flap, right sides together. Press the pocket bag downwards. You may now remove the basting stitches from the frame.
Pressing Pocket Leaf
p. 13- Press the leaf along the fold line with the wrong side in. The finished width should be 1.5 cm. The fold on the flap needs to line up exactly with the stitching on the pocket flap.
Securing Welt and Pocket Bag
p. 14- From the front side, tuck the corners of the frame inward. Press the flap down, making sure the seam allowance is facing up. Secure the welt with pins or baste it in place, then stitch along the seam line to fasten both the pocket bag and the welt.
Finishing Pocket Lining
p. 16- Smooth out and press the corners of the frame inward. Secure them on the inside with a triple stitch, keeping the edges of the frame perfectly aligned. Sew the sides of the pocket lining together. The pocket is now finished. Remove any basting stitches from the flap and press to finish.
Reinforcing Upper Pocket Area
p. 17- On the inside of the left front panel, reinforce the area beneath the upper pocket with a 14 x 4 cm strip of interfacing, cut along the grain. Mark the stitching line for the welt on the right side of the front panel, following the pattern markings.
Related terms
requiresLining fabric