Fly zipper construction
Technique of sewing a zippered fly closure with a fly shield and topstitching.
Where it is used
Fly topstitching
p. 19- Mark the fly topstitching line according to the markings on the front pattern piece.
Fly topstitching
p. 19- Sew the fly topstitching along the marked line.
Fly topstitching
p. 20- Press the topstitched fly.
15.26. Topstitch the fly
p. 21- Topstitch the fly in two passes: stitch along the marked line from the top edge of the pants, stopping 1.0–1.5 cm before the center seam, with the fly shield folded to the wrong side. Finish with a backstitch. Raise the presser foot, smooth out the fly shield, and make a through-and-through bartack 1.0–1.5 cm long, reaching the center seam.
12. Secure Zipper Bottom Triangle
p. 10- Fold the triangle at the end of the cut to the wrong side and stitch it to the zipper tape.
Trim and wrap the zipper tail
p. 8- If the zipper has a long tail left, trim it down to 2 cm. Cut a fabric or lining piece measuring 4 cm wide by 3 cm long. Place the extra piece right sides together at the bottom edge of the zipper. Pin or baste in place. Sew along the zipper edge using the presser foot width. Fold the back piece away so it doesn't get caught in the seam.
Stitching Second Zipper Side
p. 15- Turn the zipper teeth and place them under the foot so that the teeth are positioned to the right of the needle, in the groove of the foot. Stitch the zipper, starting the stitching from the upper stopper and finishing at the lower control point on the tape. Secure the stitching with backstitches at the beginning and end.
Closing Openings Near Zipper
p. 18- View of the lining from the front. Close the open openings near the zipper with a blind hand stitch.
Pinning Zipper Tape
p. 33- Pin one side of the zipper tape to the edge of the left fly. The top stop of the zipper should be 1.2 cm below the top edge of the pants. The lower stopper should sit 2 mm above the seat seam stitch line.
Stitching Fly Facing
p. 34- Stitch the facing to the left side of the fly using a single presser foot. Seam allowance: 1.0 cm.
Sewing Decorative Fly Topstitch
p. 36- Sew the decorative topstitch on the fly in two steps: 1) Following the marked line from the top edge of the pants, stop 1.0–1.5 cm before reaching the center seam, folding back the facing on the inside. Secure with a backstitch at the end.
Attaching Zipper to Left Fly
p. 34- Attach one side of the zipper tape to the edge of the fly on the left pant leg using a single presser foot with a 1.0 cm seam allowance.
