Sewing concept

Flap assembly

Constructing pocket flaps by stitching outer and lining pieces, trimming, and topstitching.

Where it is used

Flap Assembly - Step 2

p. 8
  1. Trim seam allowances down to 0.5 cm. Carefully snip the corners close to the stitching.
Flap Assembly - Step 2
Open the step in the "Collarless blazer sewing pattern, button-front jacket or cardigan-style jacket | Classic blazer | XS–M | A4, Letter, Plotter" pattern →

Flap Assembly - Step 3

p. 8
  1. Turn the flap right side out, gently push out the corners, and press it flat. Baste along the seam edges, then topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge for a neat finish.
Flap Assembly - Step 3
Open the step in the "Collarless blazer sewing pattern, button-front jacket or cardigan-style jacket | Classic blazer | XS–M | A4, Letter, Plotter" pattern →

Attaching Flaps - Step 1

p. 9
  1. Place the flaps face-to-face on the front piece, aligning along the seam line. IMPORTANT! The open edge of the flap should be at the bottom. Stitch the flap in place, then trim the allowance down to 3–4 mm.
Attaching Flaps - Step 1
Open the step in the "Collarless blazer sewing pattern, button-front jacket or cardigan-style jacket | Classic blazer | XS–M | A4, Letter, Plotter" pattern →

Attaching Flaps - Step 2

p. 9
  1. Fold the flap downward and press it flat. Topstitch the flap, keeping a 0.5 cm distance from the seam.
Attaching Flaps - Step 2
Open the step in the "Collarless blazer sewing pattern, button-front jacket or cardigan-style jacket | Classic blazer | XS–M | A4, Letter, Plotter" pattern →

Preparing Pocket Flap

p. 8
  1. Prepare the flap. Place the outer and lining pieces right sides together and baste around the edges with diagonal stitches.
Preparing Pocket Flap
Open the step in the "Oversized Coat Sewing Pattern | Women's Winter Coat | Loose Straight Fit with Illustrated Instructions XS-M | A4, USLetter, Plotter" pattern →

Turning and Pressing Flap

p. 9
  1. Turn the flap right side out, smooth it, and baste the seam allowances. Press with an iron.
Turning and Pressing Flap
Open the step in the "Oversized Coat Sewing Pattern | Women's Winter Coat | Loose Straight Fit with Illustrated Instructions XS-M | A4, USLetter, Plotter" pattern →

Marking Flap Stitching Line

p. 9
  1. Mark the stitching line for the flap on the lining side, keeping it 1 cm away from the edge.
Marking Flap Stitching Line
Open the step in the "Oversized Coat Sewing Pattern | Women's Winter Coat | Loose Straight Fit with Illustrated Instructions XS-M | A4, USLetter, Plotter" pattern →

Attaching Flap to Front Panel

p. 10
  1. Place the flap face down onto the front panel, matching it along the flap attachment line (the top edge of the frame). Secure it in place and sew it on, carefully following the side edges of the frame.
Attaching Flap to Front Panel
Open the step in the "Oversized Coat Sewing Pattern | Women's Winter Coat | Loose Straight Fit with Illustrated Instructions XS-M | A4, USLetter, Plotter" pattern →

Marking and Placing Lower Flap

p. 10
  1. On the pocket flaps, use tailor’s chalk to mark the stitching line on the wrong side, leaving a 1 cm gap from the edge. Place the flap face down on the front piece, aligning it along the seam line (the lower edge of the frame). Stitch it in place, making sure to keep within the frame boundaries.
Marking and Placing Lower Flap
Open the step in the "Oversized Coat Sewing Pattern | Women's Winter Coat | Loose Straight Fit with Illustrated Instructions XS-M | A4, USLetter, Plotter" pattern →

Sewing Flap Short Edges

p. 18
  1. Fold the flap (make sure you have a duplicate piece) along the crease, with the right sides facing in. Sew the short edges of the flap together.
Sewing Flap Short Edges
Open the step in the "Oversized Coat Sewing Pattern | Women's Winter Coat | Loose Straight Fit with Illustrated Instructions XS-M | A4, USLetter, Plotter" pattern →

Attaching Flap to Front Piece

p. 18
  1. Trim the seam allowances down to 0.5 cm, turn it right side out, and press it flat. Place the flap on the right side of the front piece, lining it up with the stitching line. Sew the flap in place. Note: The seam should only go through the outer layer of the flap.
Attaching Flap to Front Piece
Open the step in the "Oversized Coat Sewing Pattern | Women's Winter Coat | Loose Straight Fit with Illustrated Instructions XS-M | A4, USLetter, Plotter" pattern →

Related terms

requiresScissors