Women's Vests/Women's Classic Vest Sewing Pattern | Tailored Waistcoat PDF | Fitted Vest Pattern for Women | Plotter, US Letter, A4 | L–XXL
1 / 4Interactive sewing map
Step-by-step technological process of sewing the garment.
1
Page 1
Interfacing the Front Panels and Facings
- Apply interfacing to the wrong side of the cut pieces: Center front panels, Side front sections, Back neck facing, and Facings.
2
Page 2
Interfacing the Back Panel and Neckline
- Attach interfacing to the upper and lower sections of the back panel on the wrong side. Apply a 1.0 cm wide strip of fusible interfacing to the edge of the facing neckline from the wrong side.
3
Page 3
Sewing and Trimming Front Darts
- Sew the darts on the front piece, allowing a 1.0 cm seam margin. Trim the seam allowance down to 1.0 cm at the bottom of the dart so it can be pressed open smoothly. At the top of the dart, clip the seam allowance, stopping 1.5–2.0 cm before the dart tip.
4
Page 4
Assembling the Front Panels
- Press the dart flat on the front panel. Pin the side front piece to the center front, matching the seam lines with right sides together. Align the pocket opening edges on the center front panel edge to edge. Sew the side panel of the front onto the center panel with a 1.0 cm seam.
5
Page 5
Preparing the Side Welt Pocket
- Press open the seam allowances where the side panel attaches to the center. Mark the placement of the side pocket on the inside of the front piece, using the templates for the center and side sections. Attach the pocket interfacing to the wrong side of the front panel, extending 1–1.5 cm beyond the chalked lines.
6
Page 6
Constructing the Pocket Flaps
- Mark the placement of the side pocket on the front panel using tailor's chalk. Pin the flap and its lining together along the curved edges, matching up the edges with right sides facing each other. Stitch the flaps together with a 0.7 cm seam allowance, then trim the seam allowance around the curved edges.
7
Page 7
Pressing and Aligning the Flap
- Turn the flaps right side out and press them flat with an iron, using a cardboard template inside for shaping. Mark the stitching lines on the flap lining 0.7 cm from the edges. Pin the flap to the shelf, aligning the marked lines on the flap with the top edge of the pocket frame, right sides together.
8
Page 8
Stitching the Flap and Preparing the Welt
- Stitch the flap onto the panel along the marked line, securing the stitches at each end with the edge facing down. Press the welt in half lengthwise, matching the edges with right sides together. Mark the stitching line and add control points 0.7 cm from the edge. Pin the flap to the front panel, matching the marked lines with the bottom edge of the pocket frame, raw edges perfectly aligned.
9
Page 9
Assembling the Pocket Facing and Lining
- Stitch the flap to the panel along the marked lines, securing the ends. Pin the facing to the lower pocket lining, right sides together, and sew them with a 1.0 cm seam allowance. Press the seam allowance towards the pocket lining.
10
Page 10
Attaching Pocket Facing and Upper Lining
- Draw the stitching line for the pocket entrance on the wrong side of the facing, 0.7 cm from the edge. Pin the facing with the lower pocket bag to the flap stitching seam, right side against the flap lining. Attach the facing with the lower pocket bag to the upper edge of the pocket opening with a 0.7 cm seam allowance. Pin and align the upper pocket lining to the seam of the attached welt.
11
Page 11
Cutting and Turning the Pocket Frame
- Sew the upper pocket lining to the lower edge of the pocket frame from the wrong side with a 0.7 cm seam allowance. Cut the front piece along the center of the frame, stopping 1.5 cm short of the ends, then trim at a 45-degree angle toward each stitch line, stopping 1 mm short. Turn the pocket pieces to the wrong side, shaping the corners.
12
Page 12
Pressing the Pocket Frame
- Arrange all pocket piece seam allowances so that the pocket bags and flap are facing down, while the welts are facing up. Press the pocket frame, smoothing out all seam allowances.
13
Page 13
Securing the Frame Corners
- Stitch the ends of the frame, securing the frame's corners to the pocket flap and burlap with the seam allowances. Pin together the burlap edges, aligning the cuts and notches with right sides facing each other.
14
Page 14
Closing and Pressing the Pocket
- Stitch the pocket lining edges together, leaving a 1.0 cm seam allowance. Press the finished pocket with an iron.
15
Page 15
Preparing the Back Piece
- Baste the pocket opening. Mark the position of the shoulder darts on the wrong side of the back piece. Sew the shoulder darts on the back piece and press the dart seam allowances toward the center back edge.
16
Page 16
Assembling the Facings
- Sew the shoulder edges of the facings and back facing together with a 1.0 cm seam allowance. Press open the seam allowances of the shoulder seams. Pin the facings and back neckline facing to the edges of the front and back neckline, aligning raw edges, notches, and shoulder seams.
17
Page 17
Finishing Neckline and Front Edges
- Finish the raw edges of the front panels and back neckline, allowing a 0.7 cm seam. Trim the seam allowances on the facing at the corners.
18
Page 18
Armhole Finishing Setup
- Press the edges of the front and the neckline of the back, creating a 0.1 cm roll from the front and back pieces. Pin the facing and back neckband to the armhole edges of the front and back, matching edges and shoulder seams with right sides together. Finish the edges of the armhole with a 0.7 cm seam.
19
Page 19
Turning and Topstitching Armholes
- Make small cuts along the seam allowance of the armhole facing at the curves. Turn the front piece right side out through the shoulder openings from the back side. Topstitch the armhole facing seam at 0.1 cm from the lining side in two steps: from the side seams of the back and front towards the shoulder seam.
20
Page 20
Sewing Side Seams
- Press the finished armhole, creating a roll of 0.1 cm from the front and back pieces. Pin the side edges together, matching up the edges and notches with right sides facing each other. Sew the side seams together using a 1.0 cm seam allowance.
21
Page 21
Pressing Side Seams
- Press open the seam allowances along the sides.
22
Page 22
Assembling the Lining Side Seams
- Press the lower seam allowance up, turning 4.0 cm to the inside of the garment. At the facing and front edge step, press the seam allowance in by 1.0 cm. Pin the side edges of the lining together, matching edges and notches. Sew the side seams of the lining, stopping 1.0 cm before reaching the bottom edge, using a 1.0 cm seam allowance.
23
Page 23
Attaching Lining to Back Hem
- Press open the seam allowances of the lining's side seams. Pin the lining to the lower edge of the back, matching edges and notches, right sides together. Sew the lining to the lower edge of the back, leaving a 15-20 cm opening in the center.
24
Page 24
Pressing Back Lining Attachment
- Press the seam allowance of the lining attachment at the bottom of the back onto the lining.
25
Page 25
Attaching Lining to Front Hem
- Pin the jacket lining to the bottom edge of the front piece, matching the edges and notches, right sides together. Sew the lining to the bottom edge of the front panel.
26
Page 26
Pressing Front Lining Attachment
- Press the seam allowance where the lining is attached to the bottom edge of the front panel toward the lining.
27
Page 27
Stitching Front Facing Bottom Edge
- Pin the bottom edge of the facing to the bottom edge of the front, folding the facing along the seam of the front edge, aligning the edges with right sides together. Stitch the lower edge of the front facing, stopping 1.0 cm before reaching the vertical edge of the facing. Make a cut in the seam allowance of the edge facing with the undercollar at a 45-degree angle to the edge seam stitching, stopping 1 mm before reaching the stitch line.
28
Page 28
Pinning Lining to Facings
- Trim the seam allowance at the corner where the front edge is finished. Turn the garment inside out. Pin the vertical seam allowance of the placket fold to the facing edge, turning it at a 90-degree angle. Next, pin the front and back lining to the edge of the facing and the back facing, matching all edges, notches, and side seams, with right sides together.
29
Page 29
Sewing and Pressing Lining to Facings
- Sew the lining for the front and back pieces to the facings and back neckline facing, starting at the bottom edge of the facing, allowing a 1.0 cm seam allowance. Turn the garment right side out through the opening left at the bottom of the back. Press the seam allowances where the lining was attached to the facing and back neckline towards the lining.
30
Page 30
Finishing and Buttonholes
- Hand-stitch the remaining opening at the bottom of the back with invisible stitches. Mark the placement of the buttonhole on the right front piece according to the markings on the front piece pattern. Baste the buttonhole. Clean the buttonhole and cut it open if necessary. Mark the placement of the button on the left front piece according to the markings on the front piece pattern.
31
Page 31
Sewing Buttons
- Prepare the remaining buttonholes and buttons in the same way. Sew on the button.
