VerigaPatterns
Women's Dresses/Slip dress | Summer Dress Sewing Pattern with Illustrated Instructions – Wrap, Slip, or Cottagecore Styles, Girls & Everyday Wear | XS - XXL
Slip dress | Summer Dress Sewing Pattern with Illustrated Instructions – Wrap, Slip, or Cottagecore Styles, Girls & Everyday Wear | XS - XXL1 / 7

Interactive sewing map

Step-by-step technological process of sewing the garment.

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Side Seam Finishing with French Seams

  1. Fold the front and back pieces with right sides facing each other. Align the side edges and pin them, matching the notches. Sew the edges together with a machine stitch at 0.3 (1.8) cm from the edge. Trim the seam allowances to 0.2 cm, if possible. Note: Sew the edges on the right side of the fabric! Press, then press the seam allowances to one side.
Side Seam Finishing with French Seams
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Side Seam Finishing with French Seams

  1. Turn the pieces to the wrong side, ensuring the seam allowances are inside. Press, smoothing out the facing edge. Sew a joining stitch 0.7 cm from the edge of the seam.
Side Seam Finishing with French Seams
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Strap finishing

  1. Turn the strap right side out. To turn the strap, you can use a special turning tool or a hand needle with a large eye. These tools make the turning process easier. Thread the needle with strong thread, pass it through the strap tunnel, and pull the strap through to the right side. Press the strap, smoothing and aligning the edges.
Strap finishing
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Strap finishing

  1. Fold the strap piece in half with the right sides facing inward. Sew a stitching line at a distance of 0.5-0.7 cm from the folded edge. Tip: At the start of the stitching, increase the seam allowance width for 7-9 stitches. Then transition to the desired seam width. Do the same at the end of the stitching, but in reverse order, and leave long thread tails at both ends of the seam. This will create a funnel effect at the beginning and end of the seam. Trim the excess seam allowances to 0.3–0.7 cm.
Strap finishing
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Preparation of the front and back facings

  1. Cut the fusible interfacing roughly, leaving extra allowances beyond the actual facing shape. Align the non-fusible side of the interfacing with the right side of the facing. Do not align the edges, as the interfacing piece has been roughly cut. Pin the edge of the facing to the fusible interfacing.
Preparation of the front and back facings
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Preparation of the front and back facings

  1. Trim the excess interfacing along the facing's stitched edge. Clip the seam allowances to prevent the facing edge from puckering. Spread the pieces in opposite directions. Press the seam allowances toward the interfacing. Be careful: use heat treatment to secure the seam allowances together. Note: Place the soleplate of the iron on the facing piece. Align the adhesive side of the interfacing with the wrong side of the facing. Position the interfacing evenly along the edge of the facing. Press the facing with the interfacing. Trim any excess interfacing along the edge of the facing.
Preparation of the front and back facings
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Preparation of the front and back facings

  1. Topstitch the edge of the facing. Remove the pins.
Preparation of the front and back facings
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Preparation of the front and back facings

  1. Reinforce the upper edge of the front and back facings with bias tape using heat treatment. Be careful. If additional seam allowances are left, make sure to apply the bias tape in such a way that the edge falls within the facing seam. When attaching the fusible bias tape, be careful not to distort the edge. To avoid this, the soleplate of the iron should be applied with short, intermittent movements over the area, rather than dragging it along the edge. Tip: After fusing the tape, place the pattern piece on the facing and check the length of the upper edge. Fold the back facing piece and the front facing piece with the right sides together. Align the side edges. Sew the side seams. Trim the seam allowances to 0.7–1 cm. Press and press open the seam allowances.
Preparation of the front and back facings
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Finishing the upper edge of the garment with a facing

  1. Attach the strap to the marking points on the right side of the front. Secure the ends of the strap with pins or hand stitches. Tip: Position the finished edge of the strap towards the armhole. Note: The other ends of the strap remain loose.
Finishing the upper edge of the garment with a facing
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Finishing the upper edge of the garment with a facing

  1. Leave free sections on the back to adjust the loose ends of the straps. Trim the seam allowances of the facing to 0.5 cm. Clip the seam allowances of the facing to prevent the seam from tightening.
Finishing the upper edge of the garment with a facing
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Finishing the upper edge of the garment with a facing

  1. Place the facing on the upper edge of the garment, with the right sides facing each other. Align the edges. Pin or baste, matching the notches. Neaten the upper edge of the garment, gently easing the front edge at the armhole area.
Finishing the upper edge of the garment with a facing
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Finishing the upper edge of the garment with a facing

  1. From the front side of the garment, lay the facing in the opposite direction to the garment. Direct the seam allowances towards the facing. Sew a functional stitch along the facing, 0.1 cm from the seam. Note: The functional stitch should not reach the location of the front strap, leaving a 2-3 cm gap.
Finishing the upper edge of the garment with a facing
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Finishing the upper edge of the garment with a facing

  1. Conduct a fitting and adjust the strap length. In front of a mirror (side view), check the balance of the garment (the side seams should be perpendicular to the floor). The balance can be adjusted by changing the strap length. Pin the strap length in place. Trim the free end of the strap, allowing for the seam allowance. Insert the end of the strap between the garment and the back facing. From the wrong side, sew the strap in place, securing the left-over areas. Press the seam.
Finishing the upper edge of the garment with a facing
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Hemming the bottom of the garment

  1. At this stage, a fitting is necessary. Pay attention once again to the desired length of the garment. Straighten the hem, measuring the desired length from the floor around the entire garment. Leave a seam allowance and trim the excess fabric. Finish the hem with a French seam. To do this, fold the hem allowance to the inside of the garment by 0.7 (1.2) cm. Sew a stitch 0.2 cm from the folded edge. Trim the excess seam allowance, leaving a 0.1 cm margin from the stitching. Tip: At the end of the seam, leave long threads and pull them to the front side of the garment.
Hemming the bottom of the garment
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Finishing the upper edge of the garment with a facing

  1. Secure the side seam allowances of the facing to the side seam allowances of the garment with hand stitches. At this stage of sewing, the garment should be left to "hang" on a dress form, as the pieces are cut on the bias.
Finishing the upper edge of the garment with a facing
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Hemming the bottom of the garment

  1. Press the hem without stretching the folded edge. Fold the hem allowance up a second time. Sew the second stitch, trying to align it with the first stitch. Tip: Hold the folded edge by the long threads to help you start the second stitch. Press the hem without stretching the folded edge. Pull the threads to the inside of the garment and secure them with a knot. Perform steam ironing of the garment.
Hemming the bottom of the garment