Women's Coats/Oversized Coat Sewing Pattern | Women's Winter Coat | Loose Straight Fit with Illustrated Instructions XS-M | A4, USLetter, Plotter
1 / 4Interactive sewing map
Step-by-step technological process of sewing the garment.
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Page 6
Reinforcing Pieces
- Reinforce the pieces and areas on the pattern marked with a dashed line.
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Page 6
Cutting Out Pieces
- Cut out the pieces using the pattern. Transfer all “control marks” onto the fabric. Make small notches on the seam allowances through all layers, keeping them symmetrical. Each notch should be 3mm deep.
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Page 7
Sewing Front Darts
- Sew the darts on the front pieces, stopping 1 cm short of the neckline edge. Carefully cut along the dart lengthwise, leaving 4 cm uncut at the tip. Trim the seam allowances down to 0.5 cm and press them open.
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Page 7
Attaching Side Panels
- Align the edges of the front piece and the side panel using the guide notches. Stitch the pieces together, then press the seam allowances open.
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Page 8
Preparing Pocket Flap
- Prepare the flap. Place the outer and lining pieces right sides together and baste around the edges with diagonal stitches.
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Page 8
Marking and Reinforcing Side Pocket
- On the front of the finished panels, mark the pocket frame according to the pattern guidelines. Stitch along the frame lines, extending 1.5-2 cm beyond the outline. From the wrong side, reinforce the pocket opening with a strip of fusible interfacing. Cut a piece measuring 6x18 cm for this step.
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Page 9
Marking Flap Stitching Line
- Mark the stitching line for the flap on the lining side, keeping it 1 cm away from the edge.
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Page 9
Turning and Pressing Flap
- Turn the flap right side out, smooth it, and baste the seam allowances. Press with an iron.
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Page 9
Sewing and Trimming Flap
- Sew the pieces together, trim the seam allowance down to 0.5 cm, and carefully clip the corners along the curved edges.
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Page 10
Marking and Placing Lower Flap
- On the pocket flaps, use tailor’s chalk to mark the stitching line on the wrong side, leaving a 1 cm gap from the edge. Place the flap face down on the front piece, aligning it along the seam line (the lower edge of the frame). Stitch it in place, making sure to keep within the frame boundaries.
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Page 10
Attaching Flap to Front Panel
- Place the flap face down onto the front panel, matching it along the flap attachment line (the top edge of the frame). Secure it in place and sew it on, carefully following the side edges of the frame.
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Page 11
Cutting Pocket Window
- On the wrong side of the fabric, mark the cutting lines for the window. The line should run down the center of the frame, stopping 1.5 cm before reaching the sides, then angle diagonally out toward the corners. Carefully cut along the marked lines, stopping 1mm short of the corners. Make sure the flap allowances and the small tabs stay clear of the scissors.
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Page 12
Turning and Pressing Pocket Slit
- Turn the flap to the wrong side through the slit, then press the seam allowances open. If needed, trim the corners of the seam allowances on the shaped seam. On the flap, mark a fold line 2.5 cm in from the raw edge.
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Page 13
Pressing Pocket Leaf
- Press the leaf along the fold line with the wrong side in. The finished width should be 1.5 cm. The fold on the flap needs to line up exactly with the stitching on the pocket flap.
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Page 13
Sewing Pocket Bag
- Sew the pocket bag to the unfinished edge of the flap, right sides together. Press the pocket bag downwards. You may now remove the basting stitches from the frame.
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Page 14
Securing Welt and Pocket Bag
- From the front side, tuck the corners of the frame inward. Press the flap down, making sure the seam allowance is facing up. Secure the welt with pins or baste it in place, then stitch along the seam line to fasten both the pocket bag and the welt.
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Page 15
Sewing Pocketing Fabric
- Sew the pocketing fabric to the seam allowances of the flap attachment, keeping close to the seam. It's easier to stitch from the side of the flap seam allowances.
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Page 16
Finishing Pocket Lining
- Smooth out and press the corners of the frame inward. Secure them on the inside with a triple stitch, keeping the edges of the frame perfectly aligned. Sew the sides of the pocket lining together. The pocket is now finished. Remove any basting stitches from the flap and press to finish.
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Page 17
Reinforcing Upper Pocket Area
- On the inside of the left front panel, reinforce the area beneath the upper pocket with a 14 x 4 cm strip of interfacing, cut along the grain. Mark the stitching line for the welt on the right side of the front panel, following the pattern markings.
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Page 18
Sewing Flap Short Edges
- Fold the flap (make sure you have a duplicate piece) along the crease, with the right sides facing in. Sew the short edges of the flap together.
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Page 18
Attaching Flap to Front Piece
- Trim the seam allowances down to 0.5 cm, turn it right side out, and press it flat. Place the flap on the right side of the front piece, lining it up with the stitching line. Sew the flap in place. Note: The seam should only go through the outer layer of the flap.
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Page 19
Securing Welt Edges
- Tuck the seam allowances inside and press the pocket flap upward. Secure the edges of the welt with hand stitches.
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Page 20
Sewing Center Back and Vent
- Align the center back edges. Stitch the back pieces together up to the start of the vent, then continue the seam along the top edge of the vent. Finish stitching, stopping 1 cm before reaching the edge. Make a small snip at the corner of the seam allowance on the right back piece only. Press the seam allowances open, and then press the vent toward the left back piece.
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Page 21
Attaching Facing and Trimming Lapel
- Place the front and facing pieces right sides together, align the edges and notches, and sew from the lapel break point down to the hem. Trim the corners of the lapel seam allowances. Make small snips at the start of the lapel fold, stopping 1 mm before the stitching line.
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Page 22
Turning Lapel and Sewing Back to Side Pieces
- Turn the lapel right side out, smooth out the corner, and press it flat. Align the edges of the back and side pieces using the guide marks, stitch them together, and press the seam allowances open.
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Page 23
Shoulder Seams and Back Lining Assembly
- Sew the shoulder seams. Press the seam allowances open. Align the center seams of the back lining. Stitch up to the start of the vent. Press the pleat flat. Align the neckline facing edge with the back lining edge. Sew them together. Press the seam allowances toward the lining side.
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Page 24
Sewing Lining Contour and Facing
- Sew the contour seams on the lining, matching the edges at the notches on the corresponding pieces. Press the seam allowances open. Align the edges of the facing and the front lining, baste them together, and stitch. Please note, the lining should be 1.5 cm shorter than the facing.
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Page 25
Shoulder Lining and Collar Assembly
- Align the shoulder edges of the front and back lining pieces. Sew them together, then press the seam allowances open. Place the collar pieces right sides together and stitch them, stopping the seam 1 cm before you reach the neckline edge. Trim the seam allowance down to 0.5 cm and clip the corners. Turn the collar right side out, push out the corners neatly, and baste along the seam. Press to set the shape.
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Page 26
Shaping Collar and Marking Corners
- Shape the collar along the fold as it will look when finished, making sure the bottom (interfaced) collar is underneath. Pin in place, then trim any extra seam allowance from the lower collar. From the wrong side, mark the corners of the seam allowance along the collar attachment line.
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Page 27
Inserting Collar into Neckline
- On the wrong side, mark the corners of the seam allowances on the facing. Make small cuts in the allowances, stopping about 1mm before the corners. On the front panel, the collar seam meets the dart, so no notch is needed here. From the inside of the coat, insert the collar into the neckline, matching the edges of the undercollar to the back neckline. Align the edges of the upper collar with the facing on the back neckline. Align the notches at the center back. Make sure the marked corners match up perfectly.
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Page 28
Stitching Collar Neckline
- Stitch along the neckline and the facing, starting and ending your seam precisely at the corners (from notch to dart).
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Page 29
Trimming and Sewing Collar to Facing
- Trim the corners of the seam allowances at the shoulder seams and the center back seam. Align the collar and facing edges along the break line, matching the seams of the collar and lapel. Sew the collar to the facing side along the break line, starting from the notch and continuing to the lapel seam.
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Page 30
Sewing Collar Roll Line
- Sew the collar along the roll line from the front side, starting at the lapel seam and ending at the dart. Trim the corners of the seam allowances. Make small notches along the neckline seam allowance.
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Page 31
Pressing Neckline Seam Allowances
- Press open the seam allowances.
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Page 32
Basting Neckline and Front Edge
- Baste together the seam allowances of the back neckline and the facing. In the same way, align and baste the seam allowances of the main fabric and the lining along the front edge. Turn the collar right side out and press it to finish.
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Page 33
Sleeve Elbow Seam and Vent Cuts
- Match the sleeve pieces together, right sides facing, and sew along the elbow edge all the way down to the hemline. Make small cuts at the corners of the vent on the elbow side of the sleeve, press open the seam allowances, and press the vent toward the upper sleeve piece.
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Page 34
Sleeve Front Seam and Lining Assembly
- Trim the lower seam allowances of the vent to 3mm. Press up the hem allowance on the sleeve. Sew the front seam of the sleeve and press the seam allowances open. Sew together the sleeve lining pieces. Press the seam allowances open.
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Page 35
Inserting Sleeves and Lining
- Place the sleeve into the armhole with right sides together, matching the edges at the notches. Baste or pin as needed, adjusting the fullness at the sleeve cap if necessary. Sew the sleeve in place and press the seam allowances. Sew the sleeve into the lining in the same way. Turn both the coat and lining sleeves inside out so they’re between the layers. Align the bottom edges of the outer sleeve and lining, then sew them together. Stitch from the wrong side, making sure the edges are matched with right sides facing each other.
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Page 36
Securing Sleeve Hem and Head Pad
- Secure the sleeve hem allowance by hand using invisible stitches. Prepare the sleeve head pad. Cut a piece of lightweight batting to match the curve of the sleeve cap. Hand-sew the pad to the seam allowance along the sleeve cap.
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Page 37
Attaching Shoulder Pads and Joining Lining
- By hand, using loose stitches, attach the shoulder pads to the seam allowances at the armhole and secure them at the shoulder seam allowances. The shoulder pads should be soft and not bulky. Join the lining and the outer fabric together with loose stitches: along the armhole seam allowance at the shoulder seam, and along the armhole seam allowance at the side seam.
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Page 38
Vent Opening Construction
- Mark the seam allowances at the start of the vent. Clip the inner corners, stopping 1–2 mm before the marked point. Align the edges along the top of the vent and sew them together. Make sure the marked corners are lined up perfectly.
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Page 39
Pressing and Finishing Vent Corners
- Press the upper seam allowance on the right lining piece. Finish the lower edge of the vent on the left back piece. Mark the points where the vent edges meet the hem fold. Fold the corner to the inside, lining up the edges and your marked points. Mark the intersection of the pressed folds. Stitch, stopping 1 cm before the edge. Trim the allowance to 0.7 cm and clip the corner. Turn to the right side and press flat.
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Page 40
Stitching Bottom Edges and Aligning Vent
- Turn the coat inside out. On the right front, align the bottom edges of the outer fabric and the lining. Make sure the curved seams match up. Stitch them together. Note: The facing corner should extend 1.5 cm. Trim the seam allowances at the edge of the front, the protruding corner of the facing, and at the princess seams. Align the edges of the vent on the outer fabric and the lining on the right side of the coat. Start matching from the top edge of the vent and work your way down. Note: Because the lining is slightly longer, a pleat will naturally form at the bottom.
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Page 41
Sewing Vent and Left Vent Finishing
- Sew from the top seam of the vent down to the hemline. Trim the seam allowance corners. Left Vent Finishing. Align the vent edges of the lining and outer fabric, starting from the upper edge and working downward. Stitch from the top seam of the vent to the seam at the finished corner on the hem.
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Page 42
Aligning Left Bottom Edges
- Align the edges of the outer fabric and lining along the bottom of the left side of the coat. Stitch from the seam of the finished corner on the hem up to the back princess seam, securing your stitches at the end. Please note that an unstitched pleat will form along the lining at the vent edge.
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Page 43
Stitching Bottom Seam and Leaving Opening
- Align and stitch together the edges of the outer fabric and the lining along the bottom seam, starting from the front edge and continuing to the princess seam. Let the corner of the facing extend out by 1.5 cm. Trim the seam allowance corners at the front edge, the protruding facing corner, and the allowances at the princess seams. Make sure to leave an opening for turning the coat right side out.
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Page 44
Turning Coat and Basting Vent Seam
- Turn the coat right side out through the opening you left. Tuck the facing corner inside so that it forms a neat right angle on the outside. Press the vent and the bottom edge of the left coat front to set the shape. Baste the vent seam on the right side of the coat, creating a slight roll of the outer fabric. Then, stitch from the lining side, keeping 1-2mm away from the joining seam.
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Page 45
Pressing and Hand-Tacking Hem Allowance
- Press the lower part of the right front of the coat. Line up the front edges and check the length. If everything matches up, hand-tack the hem allowance using loose stitches from the inside of the coat, turning the bottom edge inside out slightly. Beforehand, secure the hem allowance with basting.
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Page 46
Closing Opening and Thread Chain
- Turn the coat right side out and close the remaining opening by hand stitching. Sew the facing to the hem allowance using a thread chain. Create a loose loop with a second thread, then secure it with knots all along the length.
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Page 47
Buttonholes and Buttons
- Stitch the buttonholes and sew on the buttons, following the markings on your pattern. Sew the buttons onto the sleeve vents.
