Women's Vests/Linen Vest Sewing Pattern | Sleeveless Peplum Top PDF | Summer Button Up Shirt | Trendy Waistcoat | L-XXL
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1 / 4Interactive sewing map
Step-by-step technological process of sewing the garment.
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Page 1
Transfer Dart Markings
- Transfer the dart markings to the wrong side of the front bodice pieces.
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Page 1
Cut Fusible Interfacing
- From fusible interfacing, cut the following pieces: Front facing - 2 pcs, Back neckline facing - 1 pc. Do not fuse the main fabric pieces!
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Page 1
Reinforce Neckline Edges
- Use a bias-stitched fusible stay tape to reinforce the neckline edges on the front and back pieces. Fuse the tape to the wrong side so the stitching line on the tape sits exactly 1 cm from the raw edge.
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Page 2
Pin Front Darts
- Place the front pieces right sides together, aligning them along the dart center line. Pin in place, matching the dart markings.
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Page 2
Sew Front Darts
- Sew the darts following the markings—start stitching at the base of the dart and finish at the tip.
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Page 2
Press Front Darts
- Press, then press the dart allowance upward. At the top point of the darts, lightly shrink the fabric with smooth, arcing motions.
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Page 2
Press Hem Allowance
- On the lower front and back pieces, press the hem allowance to the wrong side (2 cm). Press up 1 cm first, then fold and press up another 1 cm.
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Page 3
Pin Armhole Binding
- Place the armhole binding piece right sides together with the blouse bodice, matching along the armhole edge and aligning all notches. Pin in place.
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Page 3
Stitch Shoulder Seams
- Place the front and back pieces right sides together, matching the shoulder edges. Pin in place. Stitch with a 1.0 cm seam allowance.
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Page 3
Stitch Armhole Binding
- Stitch the binding on the sewing machine using a 1.0 cm seam allowance.
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Page 3
Finish Shoulder Seams
- Finish the raw edges with a serger; stitch from the back side. Press, then press the seam allowances toward the front.
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Page 4
Press Armhole Seam
- Press the seam, then press the seam allowances toward the binding.
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Page 4
Notch Armhole Curves
- At the curves of the armhole, make perpendicular notches, stopping 0.2–0.3 cm short of the stitching line.
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Page 4
Stitch Side Seams
- Stitch the side edges and the binding edges on the sewing machine using a 1.0 cm seam allowance. Check that the armhole seam allowances are pressed toward the binding.
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Page 4
Pin Side Seams
- Place the front and back pieces right sides together, matching the side edges, and pin in place. Carefully align the seams where the binding was sewn on.
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Page 5
Topstitch Armhole Binding
- Topstitch the binding to the front, sewing 1.0 cm from the edge along the basting line. After stitching, check that on the wrong side the edge of the binding is caught in the seam along the entire length.
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Page 5
Baste Armhole Binding
- Wrap the armhole seam allowances with the binding, then fold the binding to the wrong side. Baste in place, stitching by hand close to the binding's edge.
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Page 5
Finish Side Seams
- Finish the raw edges on the serger, sewing from the front bodice side. Press, then press the seam allowance toward the back.
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Page 6
Sew Gathering Rows
- Sew 2 parallel rows of stitching along the top edge of the lower pieces to create gathers. Stitch the first row 0.5 cm from the edge and the second row 0.7 cm from the edge. Use a long stitch length; do not backstitch at the beginning or end, and leave thread tails.
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Page 6
Pin Lower Side Seams
- Place the lower front and back pieces right sides together, matching the side edges, and pin in place.
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Page 6
Finish Lower Side Seams
- Finish the raw edges on a serger, stitching from the side of the lower back piece. Press, then press the seam allowance toward the lower front piece.
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Page 7
Finish Waist Seam
- Finish the raw edge on the serger; stitch from the lower-piece side. Press, then direct the seam allowances toward the bodice.
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Page 7
Gather Lower Pieces
- At the same time, pull on the lower bobbin threads and gather to the amount shown on the paper pattern. The gathering length on the back piece is given in full. On the front pieces, the gathering length is marked from the side seam to the notch on the front edge line. Tie off the thread tails.
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Page 7
Pin Bodice to Lower Piece
- Place the lower blouse piece and the bodice right sides together, matching the waist seam allowance, and pin in place.
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Page 8
Assemble Facing and Interfacing
- Place the non-fusible side of the interfacing neck facing onto the right side of the neck facing. Match up the outer edges and pin in place. Stitch with a 1.0 cm seam allowance.
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Page 8
Stitch Facing Shoulder Seams
- Place the front facings and the back facing right sides together, matching the shoulder seams. Pin in place. Stitch with a 1.0 cm seam allowance. Press the seam, then press the seam allowances toward the back facing.
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Page 8
Stitch Interfacing Shoulder Seams
- Place the fusible pieces for the facings and the back neck facing together with the non-fusible sides facing, aligning the shoulder seams. Stitch with a 1.0 cm seam allowance.
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Page 8
Trim Facing Seam Allowance
- Trim the seam allowance down to 0.5 cm.
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Page 9
Notch Back Neckline
- Along the back neckline edge, make perpendicular notches, stopping 0.2–0.3 cm short of the stitching line.
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Page 9
Fuse Neckline Facing
- Turn the facing to the right side and smooth out the interfacing piece, aligning the neckline edges. Fuse the neckline facing with the sewn-on piece, creating a slight roll toward the fusible side.
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Page 9
Pin Facing to Blouse
- Place the blouse facing and the blouse right sides together, matching the neckline edges. Pin in place.
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Page 10
Topstitch Neckline Facing
- Press the seam allowances toward the facing and topstitch from the right side, stitching 0.1–0.2 cm onto the facing from the seam.
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Page 10
Trim Neckline Seam Allowance
- Trim the seam allowances down to 0.5 cm.
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Page 10
Press Neckline Facing
- Turn the facing to the wrong side of the blouse and press, creating a slight rolled edge.
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Page 10
Stitch Front Facing Edges
- Place the front facing and the blouse right sides together, matching the front edge seam allowances. Pin in place, direct the neckline seam allowances toward the facing, and secure with a pin (as shown in the photo). Stitch in place using a 1.0 cm seam allowance.
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Page 11
Pin Facing at Hemline
- Place the facing and blouse right sides together, matching the hemline. Pin in place. Stitch on the sewing machine using the hem allowance—2.0 cm.
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Page 11
Topstitch Front Facing Edges
- Press the seam allowances toward the facing and topstitch from the right side, stitching 0.1–0.2 cm onto the facing from the seam.
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Page 11
Trim Front Facing Seam Allowance
- Trim seam allowances to 0.5 cm.
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Page 11
Press Front Facings
- Turn the facings to the wrong side and press, creating a slight roll to the edge.
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Page 12
Trim Hem Corners
- Trim the corner of the side for neat turning.
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Page 12
Topstitch Hem
- Topstitch the hem allowances, stitching from the front side at a distance of 0.9 cm. After stitching, check that the edge of the hem on the back side is caught in the stitch along the entire length of the seam. Iron the seam.
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Page 12
Secure Facings
- Using a hand sewing needle, sew fastenings along the edge of the facing, in the area of the shoulder and waist seams.
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Page 12
Turn and Press Hem
- Turn right side out, straighten the corners. Iron, re-pressing the seam allowances along the hem line (1+1 cm).
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Page 13
Transfer Buttonhole Markings
- Transfer the buttonhole markings from the paper pattern to the right side of the blouse, as if you were wearing it.
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Page 13
Sew Buttonholes and Buttons
- Baste the buttonholes, transfer the button placement marks, and sew on shank buttons.
