Women's Dresses/Linen Maxi Dress Pattern PDF | V-Neck Summer Dress | Sleeveless Long Slip Dress | Minimalist Boho Sewing | XS-M
1 / 2Interactive sewing map
Step-by-step technological process of sewing the garment.
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Apply fusible stay tape to the center back edges
- Use fusible stay tape along the seam allowances of the center back edges on the wrong side to prepare for the zipper. Position the 1 cm wide tape 3 mm from the edge, so the sewing machine needle will stitch right along the tape. The fusible tape should extend 1–2cm past the zipper marking.
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Apply bias-cut fusible stay tape to the neckline
- Apply bias-cut fusible stay tape to the neckline seam allowances on the wrong side of the front and back pieces. Position the tape so its main thread runs 1 cm from the raw edge. The needle should stitch right along this thread. Don't stretch the edges. After fusing, compare the seam lengths to those on the paper pattern—they should match exactly.
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Fold and sew the strap pieces
- Fold the strap pieces lengthwise with the right sides facing each other. Pin or baste the edges together. Sew with a 1 cm seam allowance, securing the ends. Press the seams flat. Do not press the fold.
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Sew the bust darts on the front facing piece
- Sew the bust darts on the front facing piece. Press the darts, then press them downward. At the top point of the dart, gently steam into shape using curved motions.
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Sew the bust darts on the front piece
- Sew the bust darts on the front piece. Press the darts, then press them upward. At the tip of the dart, softly shape with the iron using a curved motion.
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Page 3
Turn the straps right side out
- Turn the straps right side out. Center the seam. Use scissors or a ruler to open out the seam allowances in opposite directions and press them flat. The side with the seam will be on the inside.
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Secure one edge of the elastic
- Align one edge of the elastic with the edge of the strap. Secure the elastic together with the strap, and sew a straight stitch 0.7 cm from the edge.
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Finish the side edges of the facing pieces
- Finish the side edges of the front and back facing pieces using a serger. Stitch from the right side of the fabric. Press to set the seam. Check that the edge lengths match those on the paper pattern and with each other. The edges must not be shorter or longer than specified.
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Page 4
Pull and secure the second end of the elastic
- Pull the elastic through to the other end of the strap. Match the second end of the elastic to the edge of the strap. Pin in place. Secure the elastic to the strap and stitch along the edge, keeping a 0.7 cm seam allowance. Stretch the elastic as you sew to create an even gather.
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Page 4
Steam and insert the flat elastic
- Steam the flat elastic, 2.5 cm wide. Cut the required length (refer to the paper pattern for the strap piece). Insert the elastic into the strap using a hook or safety pin.
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Stitch the front and back facing pieces together
- Place the front and back facing pieces right sides together, matching up the side edges. Pin or baste to secure. Stitch on the sewing machine with a 1 cm seam allowance, backstitching at the ends. Press the seams. Then press the seam allowances open in opposite directions.
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Page 5
Finish the center edges of the back facing
- Finish the center edges of the back facing pieces with an overlock. Sew the topstitch from the right side of the pieces. Press with an iron. Check that the lengths of the edges match the pattern and each other. The edges shouldn't be shorter or longer than needed.
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Page 5
Finish the lower edge of the facing
- Finish the lower edge of the facing with a serger. Topstitch from the right side of the piece. Press with an iron.
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Finish the side edges of the front piece
- Finish the side edges of the front piece using a serger. Topstitch from the right side of the fabric. Press to set the stitches. Check that the lengths of the edges match the pattern and each other. The edges shouldn't be shorter or longer than needed.
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Page 6
Baste the invisible zipper
- Insert the invisible zipper into the center back seam. Steam the zipper tape before attaching. Place the back piece right side up. Unzip the zipper, then place one side of the zipper right side down on the right side of the back piece (as shown in the photo). Align the top zipper stop with the marked placement point. Pin the zipper in place, aligning the edge of the zipper tape with the center back seam, and baste it securely.
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Page 6
Finish the side and center back edges of the back pieces
- Finish the side and center back edges of the back pieces using an overlock stitch. Sew the seam from the right side of the fabric pieces. Press the seam. Compare the edge lengths with those on the paper pattern and with each other. The edges should not be shorter or longer.
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Page 6
Stitch the center back seam
- Place the back pieces right sides together, aligning along the center seam. Stitch along the seam with a 1 cm seam allowance. Start sewing exactly at the zipper placement mark and continue down to the bottom edge. Backstitch at the beginning and end to secure the seam. Press the seam, then press the seam allowances open in opposite directions.
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Page 6
Mark notches on the center back seam
- From the top edge of the back pieces, measure 1.2 cm along the center seam and mark your notches.
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Page 7
Stitch the first side of the zipper
- Attach the invisible zipper foot to your sewing machine. Fold back the zipper teeth and place the zipper under the presser foot so the teeth are positioned beneath the notch on the left side of the needle. Stitch the zipper in place, starting at the top stop and ending 2–3 mm before the start of the center back seam. Secure your stitches at both the beginning and end.
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Page 7
Stitch the second side of the zipper
- Fold back the zipper teeth and position the zipper under the presser foot so the teeth sit in the groove on the right side of the needle. Start sewing from the top edge and finish at the lower reference mark on the tape. Backstitch at the beginning and end to secure your seam.
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Page 7
Baste the second side of the zipper
- Unzip the zipper and lay the second tape edge right side down on the right side of the back piece. Align the top stop of the zipper with the marked control point. Match the control points on the zipper tape with the control points on the back piece. Pin the zipper in place, aligning the edge of the zipper tape with the center seam, then baste to secure.
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Page 7
Mark reference point on zipper tape
- Mark a reference point on the zipper tape where the stitching ends (see photo). Zip up the zipper and transfer the mark to the other side of the tape.
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Press the zipper wrap piece downward
- Press the piece downward.
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Zip up and check the zipper
- Zip up the zipper. Check how well the zipper is sewn on. Press with an ironing cloth.
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Page 8
Trim and wrap the zipper tail
- If the zipper has a long tail left, trim it down to 2 cm. Cut a fabric or lining piece measuring 4 cm wide by 3 cm long. Place the extra piece right sides together at the bottom edge of the zipper. Pin or baste in place. Sew along the zipper edge using the presser foot width. Fold the back piece away so it doesn't get caught in the seam.
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Page 9
Sew the front neckline
- Unzip the zipper. Place the dress and the facing right sides together, matching the neckline edges at the front. Sew just the neckline on the machine first. Stitch 1 cm away from the edge, making sure to sew along the main thread of the fusible tape. Press with an iron.
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Page 9
Press the side edges of the zipper wrap
- Press the side edges of the piece inward so they're even with the zipper.
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Page 9
Secure the zipper wrap
- Fold the raw edge of the piece over and wrap it around the zipper edge, then pin or baste in place. Sew a line on the machine, stitching 1–2 mm from the edge. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam. Press with an iron.
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Page 9
Stitch the dress side seams
- Place the back and front pieces right sides together, matching up the side seams. Pin or baste the pieces together, lining them up with the matching points. Sew along the seam allowance at 1 cm, remembering to backstitch at the start and end. Press the seam, then press the allowances open in opposite directions.
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Page 10
Clip the corner of the neckline
- Clip the corner of the neckline. Make sure the snip stops just 1–2 mm before the stitch line.
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Page 10
Topstitch the front neckline facing
- Fold the seam allowances onto the facing and topstitch from the right side. Sew a line of stitching on the facing, 2–3 mm from the seam, catching the seam allowances underneath. Trim the seam allowances close to the stitching.
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Page 10
Turn and press the front neckline facing
- Turn the facing to the inside and press, making a small roll to the wrong side. It's easier to press from the facing side, so you can keep an eye on the width of the roll.
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Page 10
Sew the back neckline
- Place the facing and dress right sides together, lining up the edges of the back neckline. Pin or baste in place. Sew only the back neckline on the machine. Stitch 1 cm from the edge, making sure to sew along the main thread of the fusible tape. Press the seam to finish.
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Page 11
Prepare facing along the center back seam
- Turn the facing to the right side of the dress, matching the pieces along the center back seam. Press the neckline seam allowances toward the facing. Pin or baste them in place.
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Page 11
Topstitch the back neckline facing
- Fold the seam allowances onto the facing and topstitch from the right side. Stitch along the facing, keeping the seam about 2–3 mm from the edge and catching the seam allowances on the underside. Trim the allowances close to the stitching. Turn the facing to the wrong side and press, making sure there's a slight roll to the inside.
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Page 11
Stitch the facing to the zipper
- Stitch the pieces together with a zipper foot on your sewing machine. Sew a line with backstitching on the machine as close as possible to the zipper teeth. Start your stitching at the very top of the neckline and finish at the lower edge of the facing. Press with an iron.
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Page 12
Snip the armhole seam allowances
- Make small snips along the seam allowance, stopping about 2 mm before the stitching line.
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Page 12
Topstitch the armhole facing
- Press the seam allowances to the facing and topstitch from the right side. Stitch along the facing, 2–3 mm from the seam, catching the seam allowances underneath. Start and finish the stitching as close as possible to the strap opening. Trim the seam allowances close to the stitching. Turn the facing to the wrong side and press, rolling the edge slightly to the inside.
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Page 12
Turn the facing inside
- Turn the facing to the inside of the dress, smooth it out, and press it flat.
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Sew the armholes
- Turn the facing right side out again. Place the facing and the dress right sides together, matching along the armhole edge. Pin or baste in place. Sew by machine, securing at the ends. Stitch 1 cm from the raw edges, making sure your seam follows the main thread of the interfacing tape. Press.
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Page 13
Turn the dress right side out
- Turn the dress right side out. Smooth out the straps. Press the seams flat.
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Page 13
Secure the straps at the back
- Secure the straps at the back in the same way.
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Insert the straps into the openings
- Lay the dress on the table with the front side facing you. Place the straps on top, making sure the seams are facing down. Carefully insert the straps into the designated openings.
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Page 13
Stitch the straps to the front
- Turn the facing upward. The straps should be positioned between the facing and the dress. Align the raw edges of the straps with the dress, and stitch them together using a 1 cm seam allowance, securing with backstitching. Press the seam allowances for the neckline and armholes toward the facing.
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Page 14
Tack the facing to the dress
- Lay the dress flat on the table. Align the side seams of the dress and the facing. Attach light tacking stitches to hold the facing and dress together. The tacks are invisible from the outside. Each tack should be about 1 cm long.
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Page 14
Hem the dress
- Press the 1.5 cm hem allowance to the wrong side. Tuck the end of the serger thread inside the hem. Topstitch on the machine. Sew from the right side of the dress, keeping the stitch about 1.2–1.3 cm from the edge. Where the seam forms a circle, add a neat backstitch to secure it. Press to finish.
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Page 14
Hang the dress and finish the bottom edge
- Let the dress hang overnight—or even better, for a full day—on a hanger or dress form. Since the dress is cut on the bias, the hem may shift or stretch. Even out the bottom edge of the dress. Finish the bottom edge using an overlock machine. Topstitch from the right side of the dress. Press with an iron.
