Women's Pants/Barrel Leg Pants Pattern PDF | Balloon Trousers Sewing | High Waisted Pleated Pants | Tapered Womens Bottoms | XS-M
1 / 4Interactive sewing map
Step-by-step technological process of sewing the garment.
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Fusible interfacing
- Fuse the fly interfacing to the fly seam allowance on the wrong side of the right front pant piece.
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Fusible interfacing
- Fuse the cut pieces: the center waistband section, the welt pieces, and the pant hem facings.
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Fusible interfacing
- Fuse a 1.2 cm-wide strip of interfacing to the pocket-opening seam allowances on the wrong side of the front pant pieces.
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Pocket construction in the side seam with a welt
- Chalk-mark the pocket frame on the right side of the front pant pieces, following the front-piece pattern.
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Pocket construction in the side seam with a welt
- Pin the welt to the pocket opening so the welt edges line up with the pocket frame edges. The ends of the frame on the welt must match up exactly with the ends of the frame marked on the front pant pieces. Place the welt on the right side of the garment.
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Pocket construction in the side seam with a welt
- Press the welt in half, aligning the lengthwise edges with the wrong sides together.
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Pocket construction in the side seam with a welt
- Chalk-mark the stitching line and the match points (frame ends) on the pocket welt. Seam allowance: 1.0 cm.
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Pocket construction in the side seam with a welt
- Make 45° snips at the corners of the pocket frame
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Pocket construction in the side seam with a welt
- Stitch the upper pocket bag from the wrong side along the welt attachment seam, carefully matching the stitch ends.
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Pocket construction in the side seam with a welt
- Pin the upper pocket bag on top of the already stitched welt, aligning the raw edges.
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Pocket construction in the side seam with a welt
- Stitch the welt to the pocket frame along the marked line, backstitching at both ends of the frame.
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Pocket construction in the side seam with a welt
- and on the pocket bag, stopping 1 mm short of the stitching line.
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Pocket construction in the side seam with a welt
- Press the seam where the upper pocket bag is stitched on, folding the pocket bag toward the right side.
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Pocket construction in the side seam with a welt
- Turn the pocket pieces to the wrong side, carefully turning out the corners at the end of the welt.
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Pocket construction in the side seam with a welt
- Press all pocket seam allowances open so the pocket bag is directed toward the inside of the pocket.
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Pocket construction in the side seam with a welt
- Stitch the ends of the pocket welt frame, securing the pocket-frame corners to the seam allowances of the welt ends and the upper pocket bag allowance.
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Pocket construction in the side seam with a welt
- Press the pocket welt frame.
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Pocket construction in the side seam with a welt
- Sew a topstitch 0.1 cm from the edge around the area where the welt is set into the pocket frame (three sides).
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Pocket construction in the side seam with a welt
- Pin the rounded edges of the upper and lower pocket bags together, right sides facing.
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Pocket construction in the side seam with a welt
- Stitch the edges of the upper and lower pocket bags all the way around. Seam allowance: 1.0 cm.
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Pocket construction in the side seam with a welt
- Finish the curved pocket edges with an overcast stitch.
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Pocket construction in the side seam with a welt
- Pin the pocket bags to the front pant piece, aligning the side and top edges.
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Pocket construction in the side seam with a welt
- Secure the seam allowances. Allowance: 0.5 cm.
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Forming pleats
- Form the pleats on the front pieces according to the notches on the top edge of the front piece and the markings on the front pattern.
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Pocket construction in the side seam with a welt
- Press the finished pocket.
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Securing pleats
- Secure the pleat seam allowances along the top edge of the front pant piece. Allowance: 0.8 cm.
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Side seams
- Press the side seam allowances toward the back pant leg.
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Side seams
- Finish the raw edges of the pants’ side seam allowances.
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Side seams
- Pin the side edges together, matching the edges and notches, with right sides facing.
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Pant leg hem finishing
- Pin the hem facing to the lower edge of the front and back pant legs, matching the raw edges, seams, and notches, with right sides together.
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Pant leg hem finishing
- Press the seam allowance of the hem-facing side seams open.
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Pant leg hem finishing
- Sew the side edges of the hem facings for the front and back pieces. Seam allowance: 1.0 cm.
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Pant leg hem finishing
- Pin the front hem facing to the back hem facing, aligning the side edges with right sides together.
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Pant leg hem finishing
- Sew the pant-leg lower edge to the hem facing. Seam allowance: 0.7 cm.
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Inseam preparation
- Using an iron, ease-stretch the back inseam so it matches the front seam length.
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Pant leg hem finishing
- Press the hem facing along the bottom of the pant legs, forming a 0.1 cm roll to the outside from the front and back pieces.
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Pant leg hem finishing
- Topstitch the hem-facing seam on the pant legs at 0.1 cm from the facing side.
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Inseams
- Pin the pants inseam edges together, matching the cut edges and notches, with right sides facing.
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Inseams
- Press the inseam seam allowances toward the back pant piece.
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Pant leg hem finishing
- Secure the facing along the side seams and along the inseams,
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Pant leg hem finishing
- Serge the inner edge of the pant-leg hem facing. Tuck the serger thread tails into the cover-stitch line on the wrong side using a hook.
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Seat seam
- Stitch the seat seam with a double row of stitching, catching the fly seam allowances at the same time. Seam allowance: 1.0 cm.
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Seat seam
- Pin the seat-seam edges of the pant legs together, matching the raw edges and notches, with right sides facing.
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Pant leg hem finishing
- as well as with blind stitches at the center of the front hem and the center of the back hem of the pants.
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Seat seam
- Press the seat seam allowance toward the right pant leg, 10.0 cm down from the top edge of the pants.
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Fly topstitching
- Mark the fly topstitching line according to the markings on the front pattern piece.
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Fly topstitching
- Sew the fly topstitching along the marked line.
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Seat seam
- Press the seat-seam allowance on the inseam section on edge.
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Prepare the waistband and attach it to the top edge of the pants
- Pin the center waistband section to the waistband’s vertical edges, aligning the edges with right sides facing each other.
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Prepare the waistband and attach it to the top edge of the pants
- Press the seam allowances open where the waistband center section is stitched to the waistband.
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Prepare the waistband and attach it to the top edge of the pants
- Sew the waistband center section to the waistband’s vertical edges. Seam allowance: 1.0 cm.
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Prepare the waistband and attach it to the top edge of the pants
- Serge the inner edge of the waistband. From the wrong side, use a hook to tuck the serging threads into the understitching line.
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Prepare the waistband and attach it to the top edge of the pants
- Stitch the outer edge of the waistband to the top edge of the pants. Seam allowance: 1.0 cm.
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Prepare the waistband and attach it to the top edge of the pants
- Pin the outer edge of the waistband to the top edge of the pants, matching the raw edges and placing right sides together.
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Prepare the waistband and attach it to the top edge of the pants
- Press the waistband in half lengthwise, aligning the short ends with the wrong side facing in.
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Prepare the waistband and attach it to the top edge of the pants
- Topstitch along the waistband seam, stitching right in the seam ditch.
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Prepare the waistband and attach it to the top edge of the pants
- Press the seam allowance from the waistband attachment seam up onto the waistband.
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Prepare the waistband and attach it to the top edge of the pants
- Pin the overlocked edge of the waistband to the waistband attachment seam. Baste if needed.
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Prepare the waistband and attach it to the top edge of the pants
- Leave the center section of the waistband open.
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Prepare the waistband and attach it to the top edge of the pants
- Press the waistband attachment seam.
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Prepare the waistband and attach it to the top edge of the pants
- Insert a 4.0 cm-wide elastic into the side openings of the waistband left on the side of the waistband’s center section.
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Prepare the waistband and attach it to the top edge of the pants
- Chalk the topstitching lines on the waistband, keeping 1.5 cm from the top edge of the waistband and from the waistband attachment seam. Do not mark the stitching on the center section of the waistband.
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Prepare the waistband and attach it to the top edge of the pants
- Do not stitch over the center section of the waistband. Remove the waistband basting.
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Prepare the waistband and attach it to the top edge of the pants
- Evenly distribute the elastic inside the waistband and pin it in several spots so it’s spread correctly across the entire waistband.
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Prepare the waistband and attach it to the top edge of the pants
- Stitch the elastic ends into the seam where the center waistband section is attached to the waistband, working from the wrong side, leaving a 1.0 cm elastic seam allowance.
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Prepare the waistband and attach it to the top edge of the pants
- Sew the topstitching along the marked waistband lines, stretching the elastic inside the waistband as you go. Remove the pins.
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Prepare the waistband and attach it to the top edge of the pants
- Sew a topstitch along the waistband attachment seam in the center section of the waistband, stitching right in the seam ditch.
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Prepare the waistband and attach it to the top edge of the pants
- Pin the serged edge of the center waistband section to the waistband attachment seam. Baste if needed.
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Prepare the waistband and attach it to the top edge of the pants
- Press the topstitched waistband.
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Prepare the waistband and attach it to the top edge of the pants
- Press the waistband attachment seam.
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Pressing & finishing
- Pressing & finishing the completed garment.
