Women's Sweatshirts/Anorak Sweatshirt Sewing Pattern: Summer Longsleeve with Gathers (PDF Pattern, XS-XXL, A4/Letter/Plotter)
1 / 3Interactive sewing map
Step-by-step technological process of sewing the garment.
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1. Prevent stretching of the shoulder seam
- To prevent stretching of the shoulder seam: Attach a strip of fusible interfacing on the knit base, 0.5 cm wide and equal to the length of the shoulder seam, to the back shoulder seam edge.
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4. Stitch neckline trim
- Stitch the neckline trim. Seam allowance: 1.0 cm.
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3. Press shoulder seam allowance
- Press the seam allowance of the shoulder seam towards the back.
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2. Stitch and serge shoulder edges
- Stitch and simultaneously serge the shoulder edges using a 4-thread overlock (or stitch on a sewing machine and serge using a 3-thread overlock).
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5. Press neckband seam allowances
- Press the seam allowances of the neckband open.
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8. Attach neckband
- Attach and serge the Neckband to the sweatshirt neckline using a 4-thread overlock.
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7. Pin neckband to neckline
- Pin the Neckband to the neckline edge of the sweatshirt, aligning the notches and shoulder seams. The placket seam should match the left shoulder seam.
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10.2. Attach twill tape
- Attach one side of the tape, folding the ends, into the seam where the neckband meets the neckline. Place the tape on the placket side.
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9. Press neckband seam allowance
- Press the seam allowance of the neckband into the neckline on the front and back.
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10.1. Shape twill tape
- Shape the twill tape using an iron. The length of the tape should match the neckline on the back, plus allowance for folding the edges.
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10.3. Baste twill tape
- Baste the second side of the tape 0.1 cm from the edge.
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10.4. Sew finishing stitch
- Sew a finishing and securing stitch around the neckline at 0.7-0.8 cm, gently stretching the fabric. Remove the basting.
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11. Overcast facing edge
- Overcast the curved edge of the facing of the casing.
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12. Pin facing to bottom
- Pin the facing to the bottom edge of the panel, placing the right sides together.
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13. Attach facing
- Attach the facing to the lower edge of the front piece. Allowance: 0.7 cm.
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16. Secure side edge
- Secure the side edge of the back and front pieces together, starting from the notch at the beginning of the slit and 3-4 cm above. Slit allowance: 1.0 cm, side seam allowance: 0.7 cm.
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14. Topstitch facing
- Topstitch the seam allowance of the facing to the lower edge of the front piece at 0.1 cm along the facing.
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18. Press side seam
- Press the side seam, pressing the allowance towards the back, while pressing open the slit allowances.
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19. Press back hem allowance
- Press the hem allowance on the back piece to 2.0 cm.
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20. Stitch back hem
- Stitch the hem on the back piece using a flatlock machine. If a flatlock machine is unavailable, serge the edges and then stitch with a standard sewing machine.
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17. Serge side seam allowance
- Serge the side seam allowance on the front piece, starting from the finished edge of the front facing and extending 3-4 cm above the notch of the slit. Next, serge the side seam allowance, stopping 3-4 cm before the notch at the beginning of the slit, and fold back the serged slit allowance on the front piece.
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21.1. Measure twill tape
- Measure the twill tape to match the length of the back opening plus allowances for folding. Before cutting the twill tape, make sure to press it thoroughly.
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21.4. Pin ribbon
- Pin the second edge of the ribbon, folding over the top and bottom allowances.
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21.2. Sew twill tape
- Sew the twill tape to the seam allowance at the back opening, placing the tape on the right side of the allowance. Stitch 0.1 cm from the edge of the tape on the fold side of the opening. Leave a 1.0 cm allowance at the beginning and end.
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24. Press tie seam allowance
- Press the seam allowance on the tie to 0.7 cm from both sides.
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22 & 23. Mark and sew decorative stitches on casing
- Mark stitching lines on the front panel, from the face side. The stitches should be 4.0 cm and 2.0 cm from the bottom edge of the panel. Sew decorative stitches along the marked lines on the casing.
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21.5. Sew decorative stitch on slit
- Run a decorative stitch along the second edge of the ribbon, 0.1 cm from the edge, and simultaneously sew a decorative stitch along the slit on the panel.
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28. Tighten and tie bows
- Tighten and evenly distribute the gathers along the casing. Tie the ends into bows.
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25. Fold and stitch tie
- Fold the tie inside along the seam allowance and stitch 0.1 cm from the edge.
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29.1. Sew lower sleeve seam
- Sew the lower edge of the sleeve and simultaneously serge the edges using a 4-thread overlock (or sew with a sewing machine and serge with a 3-thread overlock).
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29.2. Press lower sleeve seam
- Press the seam allowance of the lower sleeve seam towards the back part of the sleeve (the larger sleeve piece).
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29.3. Press sleeve hem allowance
- Press the hem allowance of the sleeve to 2.0 cm.
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29.4. Serge front sleeve seam
- Serge the edges of the front sleeve seam separately from each other.
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29.5. Stitch bottom of sleeve
- Stitch the bottom of the sleeve using a flatlock machine. If unavailable, overcast the edges and then stitch using a regular sewing machine.
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29.6. Trim front edge of sleeve
- Trim the front edge of the sleeve. Allowance is 1.5 cm.
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29.7. Press front seam allowances
- Press the seam allowances of the front seam (sleeve casing).
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29.8 & 29.9. Mark and sew decorative stitch on sleeve casing
- Mark the decorative stitching line on the right side of the sleeve. The stitch should be 1.2 cm from the seam. Sew the decorative stitch along the marked line of the casing.
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31. Secure ties
- Secure the ties in the upper seam allowance of the sleeve.
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30. Insert ties into sleeve casing
- Insert the ties into the sleeve casing using a special tool.
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32. Attach sleeves
- Attach the sleeves to the armholes and simultaneously serge them using a 4-thread overlocker (or sew them with a sewing machine and then serge with a standard 3-thread overlocker).
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33. Press armhole seam allowance
- Press the armhole seam allowance towards the sleeve.
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34. Finishing touches
- Finishing touches on the completed item.
